msmcknittington: Queenie from Blackadder (Default)
*plays fanfare*

It is done. After a ridiculous amount of time (it feels like), I have the pattern written and the pictures edited. And now I will show you the pictures and provide a link for you to download the pattern. And then I will do the same in [livejournal.com profile] knitting and [livejournal.com profile] steamfashion. (Sorry, friends, who read both.)

Yes, I'm wearing a white silk scarf and a leather coat. Why? Because sometimes I can't help myself.

Vital Stats

Yarn: Recycled from a wool/acrylic sweater. It has 10 wpis. A good substitute would be 1 skein of Cascade 220 or 2 skeins of Elann Peruvian Highland Wool.
Needles: US 8 / 5 mm
Size: One size, which should fit anywhere from a 21-inch to a 23-inch head (Version 1 will fit up to a 24-inch head comfortably. I was saying 25-inch for Version 1 before, but I tried it on my brother, who has a 23-inch head, and there wasn't enough room to go that big.)
Knitting Time: 6 hours or so

Pictures and info under the cut )

Download Bombshell Betty, Version 2

I think my next goal is to either find a styrofoam head to photograph hats on or to find a willing model. I'm so tired of taking pictures of hats on my own head. I just keep finding flaws in my face. Like when did I get such dark circles under my eyes? They never go away. Always there. Blah.
msmcknittington: Queenie from Blackadder (Default)
I posted this on [livejournal.com profile] steam_knits last night, and didn't get quite the feedback I was expecting. I don't really want to change the post enough to get feedback on [livejournal.com profile] knitting (what with the no-crossposting rule), so I'm posting it here in hopes that you guys can offer more insight.

Yarn: Salvaged from a sweater. It's 80% wool/20% acrylic, I think. It's felted a bit, and has a really nice texture when knitted up. It's on the heavier side of worsted.
Needles: Size 8 US/5 mm
Size: For my head (22"), but it stretches a lot, so I would say it fits up to a 25" skull
Pattern: Made up by me in a very scientific manner
Linkage: Ye Olde Ravelry Page

Let's just pretend these were taken in an airship somewhere and not in my bathroom )

OK, so it's pretty cute right now, but what I'm fussed over is the decreases on the side panels. I feel that it might look better if the center triangle was wider, and the two columns of garter rib on the sides were narrower, so that the point where all the decreases come together was lower down -- closer to my jaw. The double decrease column has to stay where it is -- radiating from the crown -- because that's the one that makes the side panels curve right. The apex of the curve has to be on the crown. I'm concerned, though, that if I make the bottom panel of garter rib narrower, that it won't cup the bottom of the head right.

Plans to improve it:

-- try a stitch with a smoother texture -- that pretty much leaves stockinette or stockinette-based lace or King Charles brocade, maybe?
-- shift the decrease columns so that the center decrease section is wider and therefor longer
-- try moving the edge of the cap forward so it comes over my forehead
-- taper the center panel in the back so it cups the back of the head more

Anybody have an insight or opinions they want to offer?
msmcknittington: Queenie from Blackadder (Default)
I completely spaced on time while knitting tonight, and somehow ended up knitting for two and a half hours without taking more than a five minute break. Stupid "League of Their Own"! Being such a good movie that I lost complete and total track of time.

In that time, though, I got the bulk of the knitting done on the second frilly cogwheel cuff. I would say it took me about two and half hours to knit to the picot bind-off, and that time includes eating dinner. Unfortunately, it took like half an hour to do a third of the picot bind-off, which means that binding off is going to take nearly as long as knitting it. Why, O cruel world? Why?

All this knitting means that either tomorrow is going to be a no knitting day or a pattern writing day. I wrote out the charts for the cogwheel frill cuffs* after dinner, and I realized that their construction is a lot more complicated than I thought. The skills involved include: knitting in the round, knitting on DPNs, lace, reading from charts, two different decreases, picot bind off, and ribbing. Some of those are really basic ones (knitting in the round, DPNs, ribbing), but I know that reading from charts and lace really scare some people. I just sort of whizzed through the first one, despite ripping the whole thing out two or three times for gauge reasons. It was kismet? I dunno. Like most things I do, I feel like I could probably have worked harder on them, but I can't find anything to change, even given my directional decrease goof-up that I ended up liking.

Anyway, I have knit another (very simple) fingerless mitt, and I need some input on it.

bicolorcuff 001

Yarn: Cascade 220
Needles: Size 4 US

That above is the prototype, but it's the first picture I wanted to show you, so there. Click on it for a bigger picture.

Mitts with two color frill )

Cogwheel cuffs in action )

Er, yes. Look at all this knitting that has suddenly appeared.

*These so need a better name.
msmcknittington: Queenie from Blackadder (Default)
Here's my preliminary frilly neo-Victorian cuff, all pinned out and blocking.

frillycuff 001

It's pretty big -- a little smaller than a dinner plate. The frill on it is a full circle with a picot bind off. It's knit from the cuff down in an eyelet rib on small needles, and then for the frill, I switched to larger needles so the fabric would be drapier.

These are intended to be worn under a jacket or bodice with long fitted sleeves. They keep your hands and wrists warm, and give some frilliness to what can be a severe silhouette. They're good for early autumn or when spring is still cold.

Details under here )

So, what does everyone think?

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msmcknittington: Queenie from Blackadder (Default)
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March 2012

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